Feeding and care of your stud
Internal Parasites
Three main groups cause a problem in birds.
Trichomonas
Trichomonas gallinae is a parasite that causes a variety of diseases in many species of birds.
In Budgerigars it causes weight loss and vomiting, which can be blood stained. The birds crop becomes thickened and they can die suddenly. Most budgerigar breeder’s now routinely treat their birds twice a year for this condition to reduce its prevalence.
Pigeons also suffer and they can get an infection within their crop; causing crumbly inflammatory deposits to build up. Respiratory signs can also be seen. Transmission is primarily from bird to bird and it is passed onto young pigeons whilst being reared. Most pigeons will be carriers of this disease without showing clinical signs.
Trichomoniasis is also a problem in game birds where it infects the digestive tract leading to weight loss, excessive drinking and an "anal" discharge.
Diagnosis is simple in most cases. Wet smears of samples from birds’ crops, mouths or faeces can lead to a quick diagnosis. Prevention or treatment involves the use of a variety of drugs, all of which are of the same type and kill off the parasite.
In Pigeons and Budgerigars there is one formulation available from pet shops. However, this is a very expensive way of treating multiple numbers of birds.
Coccidiosis is a common parasitic problem in both Pigeons and Poultry. In Pigeons it mostly affects young birds and can lead to weight loss and an inflammation of the bowel. In poultry, all ages can be affected. Coccidiosis is easy to identify by taking a sample of the birds’ faeces and examining it for eggs under the microscope. Re-infection occurs primarily by the birds ingesting more eggs from their environment. Pigeons can be easily be treated by using a drug that combats the parasite, Amprolium. This has the trade name "Coxoid" and is given in the drinking water.
Avian Enviroclenz (This we buy from Osmonds) the website link is on my links page. We now use this products as it does the following and we consider it to reduce crop problems. We also mix some and spray around the birdroom in the air that will help reduce any Bacteria in the air and on the perches also.
Explanation below of the product
Enviroclenz is an all natural product containing a blend of specific organic acids that helps kill most of the disease producing organisms that are spread through the drinking water and in the air.
E.g. Salmonella, E.Coli, Pigeon Pox Virus, Paramyxo Virus, Canker, Cocci, Young Bird, Trichomoniasis, Pneumonia and other respiratory disease carrying elements.
Enviroclenz also helps prevent build up of slime and algae in drinkers and baths.
They sell it in various sizes it starts at about Price: £3.50 for a 250ml sized bottle that you dilute down.
Roundworms
Roundworms are a common problem and may also be identified on faecal samples. All species of birds are susceptible to a wide variety of types. Roundworms can generate weight loss or impactions and can cause an inflammation of the bowel. Some species of Roundworm can lead to breathing difficulties. Treatment can be administered in any of four ways.
There are many products that can be used but remember to cover both Round & Tapeworms. If you find you have a bird with worms treat the whole shed for it and use a good product and make sure it covers both round & tape worms.
We treat our birds every 6 months for this to ensure they are free & clear so we don't pass anything on to anbody and the birds don't either.
External Parasites
Ectoparasites are common in all birds. They can range from a variety of mites, which can live off, or on the bird, to ticks and lice. These can cause considerable irritation and lead to feather loss.
There are a variety of treatments available, including sprays or powders, however these contain products that can have potential side effects if over dosed; for this reason there is a trend to avoid these products.
The use of Ivermectin gives a set level of drug for up to fourteen days, some say some doses last longer. Sprays or other topical formulations may only last for up to 24 hours. Therefore the most effective and convenient treatment is "Ivomec", aways seek advice on anything you give to your birds. Ask a person that has dealt with the problem as thats the best, knowledge helps in all matters.
A thing that we do, and I think many others do, is to feed Garlic Powder to the birds. We feed it on the groats as I think this helps keep the crawlers and bird biting pests away as they get a taste of it, as it is in the birds. ( only use a small amount and don't use human clove garlic, use the powder mainly for horses). Always check and feed little but often, too much Garlic is harmful to the birds. Again, as above, Garlic will help but also keep your bird room free from moths and other insects as much as you can leave the spiders as they will eat the flys and other pest.
When pairing and at other times check the claws, they may need a little trim, (tip use nail clippers) but be careful as just to snip the very ends as there is blood in the claws and they can bleed a lot, Iodine solution helps to stop bleeding.
For eye infections we use Optrex, this works well, only one drop and keep it in the fridge.
Any sick birds remove from the flight or breeding pen and seek advice as you have to know what's wrong before you can assist and provide treatment. Ask other fanciers as they may have had the same problems.
The faster the better! as it doesn't take long for a bird to go down hill. Millet sprays sometimes help as a quick pick me up to get them to feed.
If all else fails use a crop tube with a rearing solution.
Unfortunately, if it's got to this stage you may lose the bird but that's all part of keeping livestock.
If the bird just seems a little off and is feeding try a bit of cold tea in the drinker, a teaspoon full to a drinker this acts as a pick me up to the birds also.
Egg bound hens, this is when the egg is either stuck inside or half out of the hen or when her insides have prolapsed. My first advice would be to administer Liquid Calcium.
A way of removing the egg is to submerse the hen's tail and vent in warm water, (not boiling!) and very slowly peel the skin from the egg if prolapsed and then you have to use your finger to push what's hanging out back in.(carefully) Sometimes, it will keep popping back out, try colder water to close the vent again.
I hope the above has given a little insight and help into what things to look for and how to treat. I am no expert but have researched a little and also have been given good advice when I have needed it, so it's nice to pass it on to help others.
some of the above I have had the experiences of dealing with:
Good luck, enjoy the hobby and expect some thing's to go wrong as it is livestock and these things come with it.
By working through the bad times teaches you so much for the good times and any future bad times you know just what to do!
I hope the above has given you an insight into various problems and also things to watch out for. There isn't a book that you can read to solve all problems but re-search can be helpful at times.
look at my mites page for more information and a good product to kill not only the mites but the eggs also.
